Monday, February 25, 2013

Soulburn 3D Education Page Updated Feb 25th 2013

The Soulburn CG Education Page has been updated:

Friday, February 22, 2013

New finished painting "Hive Mind II"

Much like the first Hive Mind, this was inspired by a thumbnail I saw of a completely different image. The thumbnails for this and that image have some similarities, but the full res images are quite different. This was originally going to be Hive Mind 3, but I have yet to finish the old number 2, so I swapped 2 with 3. Expect 3 (the old 2) hopefully this year. Mostly painted in Photoshop, a few elements are rendered 3d, and other elements are bits and pieces from photos I took over the years of construction equipment.

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

SoulburnScripts Updated Feb 12th 2013

Max script update:

Updated 2 scripts:

blendedBoxMapMaker: Fixed a crash bug that would occur if your selection wasn't geometry only.
blendedCubeProjectionMaker: Fixed a crash bug that would occur if your selection wasn't geometry only.

Thanks to everyone for your support.

Soulburn 3D Education Page Updated Feb 12th 2013

The Soulburn CG Education Page has been updated:

  • Added a new tutorial called Blended Cube Projection discussing a technique that lets you quickly hand paint on thousands of objects without the need to UV them. 
  • Updated my Blended Box Mapping tutorial with a brand new example.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

SoulburnScripts Updated Feb 10th 2013

Max script update:

New script:

cameraMapGeminiRenderer: Will render out templates for all cameras associated with a single cameraMapGeminiRenderer modifier. Automates the process so you're not stuck rendering a lot of cameras and changing lots of render resolutions by hand.

Updated 3 older script:

objectPainter: Some code added to copy user props to new instanced meshes, thanks to Shawn Olson.
attachSelectedObjects: Added a Mesh and Poly mode. Modified the auto-detect slightly.
blendedCubeProjectionMaker : Added support for CameraMapGemini plugin (v0.16) by Markus Boos ( The script can now use 2 methods, UVW Mapping Method and CameraMapGemini Method. The UVWMapping method works the same as the old method. The CameraMapGemini Method creates the same sort of mapping, except using cameras for projection. The main advantage to this method is the cameras exist as a rig in world space. So moving objects after applying the blendedCubeProjectionMaker does not misalign the projection. For more information, visit http:/ and look for the blendedCubeProjection tutorial in the education section.

Thanks to everyone for your support.

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Tech Floor 11

Here's my latest Tech Floor Image. This piece is sort of a companion piece to Tech Floor 8, other inspiration from the classic Star Wars Death Star Trench, and thanks to GrungeTV on Deviantart, who's also been experimenting with my panels technique, I used your "Quadanium Steel" image as inspiration as well.

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Toy Photo Page Updates for January 2013

McFarlane Halo 4 Series 1 Knight Shoot 1
76 Photos

Here's a sample...


3A WWRp Caesar Marine JEA Shoot 1
78 Photos

Here's a sample...


3A WWRp Caesar EMGY Shoot 1
74 Photos

Here's a sample...


3A WWR Nom27 Shoot 1
56 Photos

Here's a sample...


3A WWRp Custom Bertie MK3 Mode A Altervariant EMGY Shoot 1
78 Photos

Here's a sample...


Traditional Texture Painting: 3A Ghost Hunter Bertie MK3: Part 2


Equipment: Artist Tape, Saran Wrap, Tweezers, Fine Sand Paper, Exacto Blade, Gloves, Tamiya Base Layer Spray Paint, Paint Brushes of various sizes, Easy Off Oven Cleaner, Tamiya Laquer Thinner, Scrub brushes, Q-Tip, Paper Towel

Step 5: Primer: I'm told it's best to add a primer before painting. In the case of this toy though, he's already been painted, so I didn't bother with the primer. This is probably a horrible mistake. :)

Step 6: Masking: Masked out areas that I didn't want to paint, I used Artist Tape, which isn't as sticky as normal tape (so it won't pull up the paint you put it on), and cut it with an exacto blade. Some larger areas I covered with Saran Wrap, just so I didn't have to use up a lot of tape for big areas I wanted masked.

Step 7: Paint Base Layer: For smooth paint application, I used spray paint, the Tamiya TS Spray Paint Series, which is a specially formulated synthetic lacquer. Used two colors, green (TS-78, Field Gray 2) and offwhite (TS-7 Racing White). Wore gloves to avoid getting my hands all painted.

Sprayed parts with the paint can about a foot away from the actual toy (distance is very important, too close and the paint goes on uneven with lots of drips). I did 1.5 coats, basically 1 coat and then touchups in a few spots that need it.

Next came the white paint, which was a bit more of an adventure than I originally wanted.

I waited a week (although the paint should be dry after 24 hours) and then I removed the masking with tweezers. Then remasked for the white paint.

I used some sand paper to carefully sand off the dark black logos on the daywatch. If this had been a DIY robot, I wouldn't need to do this step, since it won't have any graphics on it.

Disaster! The Racing White looked horrible! Not only is it way too shiny, but it's also not opaque enough, so I can see the sanded areas of the plastic through the paint!

Had to find a good way to remove the paint and start over.

Step 8: Strip Paint: There's a lot of ways to strip paint, the first method I tried was using Over Cleaner. Works ok, but requires a lot of hard scrubbing. So next I tried Tamiya Laquer Thinner.

Worked great, you apply it with a Q-tip, rub it, and then the paint comes right off with a paper towel. Note, highly toxic stuff, I did this part outdoors so I'd have plenty of ventilation.

Stripped the paint off the head, body still in progress.

Step 7 Part 2: Used new white paint, TS-27, Matte White. The new paint was much better, more opaque and less shiny.

Did small touchups to the base layer with a paintbrush, areas that weren't perfectly masked, and had a little bit of the wrong color paint bleed through. I figured any small imperfections in the paint are ok, because it'll be weathered anyways, so imperfections will get covered over with the dirt layers.

Here's the final base layer paint job...

Part 3 will be Decals!