Much like the first Hive Mind, this was inspired by a thumbnail I saw of
a completely different image. The thumbnails for this and that image
have some similarities, but the full res images are quite different.
This was originally going to be Hive Mind 3, but I have yet to finish
the old number 2, so I swapped 2 with 3. Expect 3 (the old 2) hopefully
this year. Mostly painted in Photoshop, a few elements are rendered 3d,
and other elements are bits and pieces from photos I took over the years
of construction equipment.
cameraMapGeminiRenderer: Will render out templates
for all cameras associated with a single cameraMapGeminiRenderer
modifier. Automates the process so you're not stuck rendering a lot
cameras and changing lots of render resolutions by hand.
Updated 3 older script:
objectPainter: Some code added to copy user props to
new instanced meshes, thanks to Shawn Olson. attachSelectedObjects: Added a Mesh and Poly mode. Modified
the auto-detect slightly. blendedCubeProjectionMaker : Added support for
CameraMapGemini plugin (v0.16) by Markus Boos
(http://www.projectgemini.net/CameraMapGemini/). The script can now
use 2 methods, UVW Mapping Method and CameraMapGemini Method. The
UVWMapping method works the same as the old method. The
CameraMapGemini Method creates the same sort of mapping, except
using cameras for projection. The main advantage to this method is
the cameras exist as a rig in world space. So moving objects after
applying the blendedCubeProjectionMaker does not misalign the
projection. For more information, visit http:/www.neilblevins.com
and look for the blendedCubeProjection tutorial in the education
Here's my latest Tech Floor Image. This piece is sort of a companion piece to Tech Floor 8, other inspiration from the classic Star Wars Death Star Trench, and thanks to GrungeTV on Deviantart, who's also been experimenting with my panels technique, I used your "Quadanium Steel" image as inspiration as well.
Equipment: Artist Tape, Saran Wrap, Tweezers, Fine Sand Paper,
Exacto Blade, Gloves, Tamiya Base Layer Spray Paint, Paint Brushes of
various sizes, Easy Off Oven Cleaner, Tamiya Laquer Thinner, Scrub
brushes, Q-Tip, Paper Towel
Step 5: Primer: I'm told
it's best to add a primer before painting. In the case of this toy
though, he's already been painted, so I didn't bother with the primer.
This is probably a horrible mistake. :)
Step 6: Masking: Masked out
areas that I didn't want to paint, I used Artist Tape, which isn't as
sticky as normal tape (so it won't pull up the paint you put it on),
and cut it with an exacto blade. Some larger areas I covered with Saran
just so I didn't have to use up a lot
of tape for big areas I wanted masked.
Step 7: Paint Base Layer:
For smooth paint application, I used spray paint, the Tamiya TS
Spray Paint Series, which is a specially formulated synthetic
lacquer. Used two colors, green (TS-78, Field Gray 2) and
offwhite (TS-7 Racing White). Wore gloves to avoid getting my hands all
Sprayed parts with the paint can about a foot away from the actual
toy (distance is very important, too close and the paint goes on uneven
with lots of drips). I
did 1.5 coats, basically 1 coat and then touchups in a few spots that
Next came the white paint, which was a bit more of an adventure than
I originally wanted.
I waited a week (although the paint should be dry after 24 hours)
and then I removed the masking with tweezers. Then remasked for the
I used some
sand paper to carefully sand off the dark black logos on the daywatch.
If this had been a DIY robot, I wouldn't need to do this step, since it
won't have any graphics on it.
Disaster! The Racing White looked horrible! Not only is it way too
shiny, but it's also not opaque enough, so I can see the sanded areas
of the plastic through the paint!
Had to find a good way to
remove the paint and start over.
Step 8: Strip Paint:
There's a lot of ways to strip paint, the first method I tried was
using Over Cleaner. Works ok, but requires a lot of hard scrubbing. So
next I tried Tamiya Laquer Thinner.
Worked great, you apply it with a Q-tip, rub it, and then the paint
comes right off with a paper towel. Note, highly toxic stuff, I did
this part outdoors so I'd have plenty of ventilation.
Stripped the paint off the head, body still in progress.
Step 7 Part 2: Used new white paint, TS-27, Matte White. The new
paint was much better, more opaque and less shiny.
Did small touchups to the base layer with a paintbrush, areas that
weren't perfectly masked, and had a little bit of the wrong color paint
bleed through. I figured any
small imperfections in the paint are ok, because
it'll be weathered anyways, so imperfections will get covered over with
the dirt layers.